The Italy Files Part 4: Sicily
We're back in Zurich after 10 days in Sicily with our friends Peter and Chantal. Everyone thought we were crazy for going down there in the peak of summer, but I'd gladly be back there soaking with sweat and sipping an almond granita among the crumbling palazzi of Siracusa. Especially since it's rainy and overcast here.

Christoph and I are already plotting our new life in Siracusa, an enchanting coastal city on the southeast corner of the island. Rents look cheap, and it's got plenty of atmosphere. How can you beat greek ruins and an active volcano? (Don't worry. We did this after Florence too.)

I had been to Sicily once before, 12 years ago, with my parents and my Italian grandma, whose parents were from Villarosa, a village in the middle of the island. We went to Villarosa on that trip and spent an unforgettable day with our Sicilan cousins. But the visit was brief and I always wanted to go back for a longer stay.


So, two weeks ago, when we touched down in Palermo, I thought how strange life is. Who could have guessed, traveling around with my parents and nonna, that I'd be back 12 years later with my husband and friends from San Francisco. I can just hear my grandma saying with wonder in her voice: Imagine that.

Sicily itself is beautiful. It's Italy, but more exotic with its volcanos, neglected monuments (many are undergoing repair), cactus and palms, abandoned stone farmhouses on parched, rolling hills, and, of course, its mafia intrigue. Like I read in a guidebook, you really feel you're on the edge of Europe.

We saw the family again since it was an invitation from cousin Antonello that put the whole trip in motion. Antonello and I are actually third cousins. Our great grandparents on our mothers' sides were siblings.

We stayed in Villarosa for two nights, and it was the highlight of the trip. They fed us non-stop and pulled out old photos, including pictures from our first visit. Most touching, they had saved all the postcards and letters we had ever sent, including several from my grandma, who passed away seven years ago. I got choaked up when I saw them.

The second night the whole family decided to go out for dinner in the country. Gandolfo and Giacomo, Antonello's uncle and his dad, asked me if I liked the "campagna." I responded with great enthusiam but the wives were worried about going too "rustico." We ended up at a nice country retreat where the food never stopped coming and we lingered outside for hours.

It took us several days to recover from all the eating we did in Villarosa, but it was all delicious. I had fresh, raw almonds for the first time at Gandolfo's house. They are wonderful. I stayed away from gelato in a bun though. What is that about?

The trip had so many great moments. These are a few: Getting silly at dinner with Peter and Chantal. During one of these dinners I decided I would open a granita stand at Peter's future very hip, very italiano cafe. One of the flavors will be nagrita, a cross between a granita and a negroni. Don't you want one right now?

Other great moments: Swimming in the sea at Cefalu. You could stay in that water forever. The food, of course! Fish couscous, swordfish kebabs, octopus timballo and Antonello's shrimp pasta were my faves. Piazza San Rocco in Siracusa, the place for an aperatif and excellent people watching. Mt. Etna, in the distance, spewing smoke and ash into the sky. Seeing the church in Villarosa where my great grandparents were married.